It’s finally winter break which means I can go back to my regular routine of drawing, crafting, and sewing! If you’re wondering where I’ve been for the past several months…well school just got stressful as usual. I didn’t realize when I first started the semester, but all my classes were project based so I’ve just been constantly working on one project after another. Today I’m going to share just one of the garments I’ve finished this past fall.
- Shell: plain woven wool/polyester blend
- Lining: plain woven polyester or nylon
- Light to medium weight fusible interfacing
- 1/4″ twill tape
- 6 – 3/8″ metal buttons
- 3 – 3/4″ metal buttons
Total Cost: approximately $60
Total time spent: Approximately 2 months
I chose a fairly simple design, because I wanted to make a blazer suitable for interviews and business events. I also had to fulfill several construction requirements, such as vents on both the center back seam and sleeves, two panel sleeves, a side panel for the bodice, pockets, and a notched lapel. Although my design was not that elaborate, pattern making proved to be a challenge.
This jacket called for a torso sloper and a lot of paper. I first had to draft a jacket foundation and then transfer the front, side, and back bodice pieces to a new sheet of paper. Since I was constructing a vent, I also had to recopy the back panel. The sleeve sloper had to be graded beforehand to make an upper and under sleeve. After all these pieces were drafted I had to recopy everything for the lining and also had to draw interfacing pieces. In total there were 28 pattern pieces -whew- Pattern making alone took hours to do and after my first fitting it took several hours to fix, but at least the final product came out nicely. After everything was nicely cut out, interfacing was applied and marked using the tailor’s tack method.
Constructing was not as hard as you’d think it’d be. I think once I got into a good momentum it actually prove to be quite enjoyable. However, this jacket has a lot of detail going into it, which requires a fair amount of patience. There was also a lot of hand sewing and pressing to do. The jacket center front was reinforced with twill tape, corners were mitered, and button holes were sewn by hand. The armhole of the lining as well as the hem of the lining was hand sewn using slip stitches. I was also required to make my own shoulder pads, which took little effort to do. I’m pretty pleased with the construction, but if I had to change something I would rotate the sleeve by 1/4″ to 3/8″ to the front, because I still see a slight wrinkle on the upper sleeve. Overall the final product came out nicely and is suitable to wear during the colder months.
As much as I would love to put up a tutorial on how to construct a blazer, I’m a little burnt out and probably won’t make another jacket like this one for a while. Maybe I’ll get around to doing it after I graduate, so once it’s finished I’ll come back and link it here. In the mean time, I rather focus on smaller projects that I have planned for the next week and a half. Hopefully I’ll have something to show by the end of break 🙂